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Myanmar

In Pursuit of the Lucky Buddha

By Julia Stanton

December 29^th, 2014

Mandalay

Mandalay is known as the cultural center of Myanmar, but I found it difficult to overcome the crowding and the pollution and to navigate through the disorganized traffic. Getting around Mandalay was such a challenge that it was the only time we nearly lost our wits. We rarely found a regular taxi that wasn’t already hired. Instead, we found ourselves taking motorbike taxis, riding in the bed of a truck, and even accepting an invitation to hitch a ride in the trunk of a hatchback car.

So why go? Mandalay has the largest concentration of monks in Myanmar. It contains the world’s largest book, intricately carved teak wood monasteries, and even the base monastery of the radical (anti-Muslim) 969 Movement. You can also catch the Moustache Brothers, a very silly and politically-motivated comedy outfit with shows every evening.

Inwa

Outside of Mandalay lies Inwa, another abandoned capital with few tourists. A boat is needed to cross a river before taking a horse-drawn carriage to a handful of sites including an ancient palace, a teak monastery, and a watchtower. The Buddhist ruins, devastated by an earthquake in 1839, were nice to wander through because they have never restored.

u bein bridge

The U Bein Bridge in Amarapura is the world’s longest teak bridge spanning 1.2 kilometers. We crossed it in darkness by foot, the wood creaking softly below us, before hailing a boat at dawn. The sunrise was phenomenal, and I hoped I could depict the magic of it all in my photos.

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Yangon

In the mid-2000s, Myanmar made the unpopular decision to move its capital further north to Naypyitaw. The former capital Yangon remains the most populous city. Sitting at its center is the Shwedagon Pagoda and its slightly “Disneyfied” complex. Allegedly the world’s oldest Buddhist pagoda, it has come to serve as a monument to political change. But aside from the golden pagoda, most of the city appears decrepit and neglected, a reminder that not all changes are welcome.

Tips on Nightlife: We spent an evening in Chinatown, following in Anthony Bourdain’s footsteps, which was great, albeit quiet until late. Now if the bizarre, creepy side of Myanmar interests you, have a drink at the nearby rooftop bar Zero Zone; the girls sing karaoke and perform a “fashion show”. This might be the closest thing to a sex show here so if you’re repulsed by the sex industry in southeast Asia, you might also steer clear. You can even pay to give one of the girls a feather boa to wear during her catwalk.

Temples of bagan

The ancient city of Bagan has 2200 temples and was the main inspiration for this trip. Upon arrival, we rented rackety bicycles to cover the route from New Bagan through the South Plain & on past Minnanthu. It was more than enough since we had underestimated the mid-day heat. On the second day, we investigated the area surrounding Old Bagan; several of the bigger, touristy temples are located in this area. Our third and last full day, we opted for an electronic bicycle, which allowed for easier exploration on dirt roads and into the Central Plain.

Not a moment was wasted. We were up and about before dawn every day for the sunrises, pushed on through the sunsets and even customized our own night tour. I’m not even sure where we found the energy…must have been those 3-in-1 instant coffee mixes.

Tip on Food: Go to Be Kind to Animals the Moon once you’ve worked up an appetite! We still dream about their tea leaf salad, vermicelli salad (my personal favorite), fried tofu, pumpkin curry, and fresh juices. I tried to replicate this meal a few times in our trip and was sadly always disappointed.

balloons over bagan

The hot air balloon ride over Bagan and the Ayeyarwaddy River was a serene, almost meditative experience. It is expensive but undoubtedly worth it. I was impressed (and relieved) by the professionalism and competence of Balloons over Bagan, and I’m sure Oriental Ballooning is also fantastic.

Faces of bagan

Along the way, we encountered some wonderful characters including a litter of hungry puppies, playfully curious children, enigmatic monks, and merchants eager to practice their English.

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Inle lake

Our boating adventure around Inle Lake included visits to the Floating Gardens, the (non)Jumping Cat Monastery, Shwe Inn Thein Paya, the 5 Day Market, as well as tobacco-rolling and lotus/silk-weaving shops. The lake is a deep midnight blue sprinkled with the non-native and problematic water hyacinths.

The highlight was watching the fishermen who row with a single leg, though my understanding is that this is a dying tradition. Apparently the younger fishermen find more convenience in using their engines, but fear not - there are actors ready to strike a pose in exchange for your “lucky dollar”.

Tip on Accommodation: If you’re looking for a reasonably priced bed & (delicious) breakfast in Nyaungshwe, look up Zawgi Inn. The owner was very kind, and he set us up with a amiable guides for the lake and for our trip to Shwe Oo Min Natural Cave Pagoda in Pindaya.

en route to pindaya

The countryside in the Shan state was full of fields of sunflowers and farmers hard at work. It was difficult not to stop at every turn to admire the landscape.